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Stephen Harris: go the whole hog, with pork neck fillet and pea purée

Pork neck fillet with pea purée
What a pig eats will affect the flavour of its meat – in ways you probably recognise Credit: ANDREW TWORT AND ANNIE HUDSON

Before I was a chef, I spent most summer weekends playing cricket. I used to meet my team-mates in a greasy spoon before the game. We thought this the best preparation for the sporting exertions we faced; nothing settled the nerves like a full English.

On one of these occasions, I remember saying: “This bacon tastes of fish.” It became a sort of catchphrase: my Telegraph fantasy cricket team was even named “This bacon is fish”.

Today I could type that phrase into a search engine and my suspicions would be confirmed: other people think the same. Back then, I had to try to work out why that could be – and I came up with a theory. I surmised that the pigs were fed protein pellets made from fish because it was a cheap source of protein. There is some logic to this.

The best ham in the world comes from pigs that are fed on acorns, and pigs fed from fruit in the autumn taste better than they would...

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