The fashion for eating as if you had coeliac disease – that is, no gluten – has swelled in recent years but has finally – how to say? – bust a gut. Those useful experts at the British Medical Journal, who do not post photographs of themselves eating berries on Instagram, but who do know about nutrition, even if they are ugly, have finally told us what the sane and slightly fat have always known: restricting the diet for no reason is bad for the heart. Coeliac disease is not an aspiration, or lifestyle choice. It is an affliction, and to eat as if you have it, when you do not, is a pitiful kind of vanity.
The “clean eating” movement is responsible for the anti-gluten trend, and it is a passive-aggressive form of one-upmanship, pushed by ignorant but photogenic bloggers. It is a hobby for the rich, bored and superior, for slenderness is a status symbol that separates you from the obese poor....
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